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	<title>Sar Ciao</title>
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	<description>An Italian in Iraqi Kurdistan</description>
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		<title>Day of Rage in Sulaimani</title>
		<link>http://sarchaw.wordpress.com/2011/02/26/day-of-rage-in-sulaimani/</link>
		<comments>http://sarchaw.wordpress.com/2011/02/26/day-of-rage-in-sulaimani/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 26 Feb 2011 20:55:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>eliab</dc:creator>
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		<description><![CDATA[Following a few weeks of scattered and uncoordinated turmoil across Iraq, February 25 was deemed a nation-wide &#8220;Day of Rage,&#8221; and more than a dozen major demonstrations happened across the country, from Basra to Baghdad, from Fallujah to Mosul. Sulaimani, as history would have predicted, was not about to sit back and watch. Below are [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=sarchaw.wordpress.com&amp;blog=13101620&amp;post=452&amp;subd=sarchaw&amp;ref=&amp;feed=1" width="1" height="1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Following a few weeks of scattered and uncoordinated turmoil across Iraq, February 25 was deemed a nation-wide &#8220;Day of Rage,&#8221; and <a href="http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2011/02/26/AR2011022601854.html" target="_blank">more than a dozen</a> major demonstrations happened <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNqZdB1yz4E" target="_blank">across the country</a>, from Basra to Baghdad, from Fallujah to Mosul. Sulaimani, as history would have predicted, was not about to sit back and watch.</p>
<p>Below are some shots from Friday afternoon&#8217;s events in the central Bardarki Sara square, in the heart of the city&#8217;s bazaar. It was a stunningly beautiful day, the most pleasant and warmest in a long time. While protesters expressed a lot of anger at the current political establishment and the amount of corruption &#8211; both major ruling parties were targeted &#8211; the atmosphere was generally a celebratory one. Scenes of flags, kids and families, sounds of nationalist songs and chants for freedom (&#8220;Azadi!&#8221;), contrasted with almost ubiquitous posters depicting one of the teenagers who was killed last week by one of the party&#8217;s security forces, reminding everyone present what was at stake.</p>
<a href="http://sarchaw.wordpress.com/2011/02/26/day-of-rage-in-sulaimani/#gallery-1-slideshow">Click to view slideshow.</a>
<p>#*#*#*#*#*#</p>
<p>Dopo un paio di settimane di sparse dimostrazioni in giro per l&#8217;Iraq, questo 25 febbraio era un &#8220;giorno di furia&#8221; generale attraverso il paese. Piu&#8217; di una dozzina di manifestazioni si sono verificate, da Basra a Baghdad, da Fallujah a Mosul. E Sulaimani, come la storia c&#8217;insegna, non e&#8217; tale da restare a guardare.</p>
<p>Ecco delle foto degli eventi di questo venerdi&#8217; pomeriggio nella piazza di Bardarki Sara, nel cuore del bazaar della citta&#8217;. Era una giornata bellissima, la piu&#8217; piacevole e calda da tanto tempo. I dimostranti erano arrabbiatissimi con i leader politici, specialmente per l&#8217;alto livello di corruzione, ma l&#8217;atmosfera era generalmente una di celebrazione. Da un lato bandiere, bambini, famiglie, canti nazionalpopolari e cori in favore di maggiore liberta&#8217; (&#8220;Azadi&#8221;!); dall&#8217;altro i poster omnipresenti che raffiguravano uno dei teenager uccisi settimana scorsa dalle forze di sicurezza di uno dei partiti, come per ricordare alla gente cosa c&#8217;e&#8217; veramente in gioco in questi giorni.</p>
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		<title>I have to praise you</title>
		<link>http://sarchaw.wordpress.com/2011/02/05/i-have-to-praise-you/</link>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 05 Feb 2011 19:39:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>eliab</dc:creator>
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		<description><![CDATA[It was mid December, and I had just left Sulaimani to embark on my winter break trip. I was headed to Southeast Asia! In order to fly to Kuala Lumpur, I had to depart from Erbil, the capital of the Kurdish Region. After the 3-hour drive in a shared taxi, I arrived at the airport&#8230;. [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=sarchaw.wordpress.com&amp;blog=13101620&amp;post=446&amp;subd=sarchaw&amp;ref=&amp;feed=1" width="1" height="1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>It was mid December, and I had just left Sulaimani to embark on my  winter break trip. I was headed to Southeast Asia! In order to fly to  Kuala Lumpur, I had to depart from Erbil, the capital of the Kurdish  Region. After the 3-hour drive in a shared taxi, I arrived at the  airport&#8230;. four hours before take off. It wasn&#8217;t all my fault: Gulf  Air, whose wings were going to take me to Malaysia, advised its  customers to show up four hours before departure when leaving from  Erbil. Not knowing much about the Erbil airport or Gulf Air, I decided  to follow the advice. Result: I had more than three hours to kill at the  very bland and boring departures terminal.</p>
<p>During the taxi ride that took me from Suli to Erbil, passing through  the cities of Chamchamal and Kirkuk, I began thinking about what kind  of video I wanted to do over this two-week trip across countries I had  never visited before. &#8220;It would be nice to do something kind of like my  Beirut road trip <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2q95mtgqYUc" target="_blank">video</a>,&#8221;  I thought to myself as the driver and the other three passengers spoke  and laughed in Kurdish. &#8220;It would be nice to make the video to a song.&#8221;</p>
<p>Therefore, after having ordered a (bad) coffee and with three more  hours to kill at the depressingly somber cafe&#8217; near my gate, I began  browsing my iPod for a nice song to be the theme of my future summary  video. Then I thought, &#8220;why not pick a song that would be relatively  easy for people I met along the way to&#8230; sing themselves.&#8221; And that&#8217;s  when my rotating-wheel exercise shifted slightly: I now needed a  positive, upbeat song that also had somewhat repetitive and simple  lyrics.</p>
<p>The Doors had some interesting suggestions; <em>Another Brick in the  Wall </em>met the repetitiveness requirement but didn&#8217;t quite have the  right mood and tone. A few departure announcements later, I ran into my  Fatboy Slim collection. Shortly thereafter, I had found a winner.</p>
<p>Once I arrived in Malaysia, I had to start putting my plan into  action. In addition to the b-roll I was already filming (using my Canon  digital camera), I needed some singing. At first it was a little hard &#8211; a  certain variety of shyness in approaching near-strangers with this  weird request might have played a part. But once I got the first few  clips of barmen, hotel owners, servers and new friends, it almost became  instinctual, and I proceeded to gather clips throughout Malysia,  Thailand and Cambodia.</p>
<p>Enough background. I worked over the past four weeks to put it  together, and I&#8217;m glad to finally share it. Here&#8217;s the final product.  Ladies and gents, <strong>My SE Asia Trip to Fatboy Slim&#8217;s &#8220;Praise You&#8221;</strong></p>
<span class='embed-youtube' style='text-align:center; display: block;'><iframe class='youtube-player' type='text/html' width='480' height='390' src='http://www.youtube.com/embed/2X032MyozPU?version=3&amp;rel=1&amp;fs=1&amp;showsearch=0&amp;showinfo=1&amp;iv_load_policy=1&amp;wmode=transparent' frameborder='0'></iframe></span>
<p><em>*Because of (very strict) Youtube copyright rules, users in Iraq,  among other countries, cannot see the video. Users in the U.S., Italy  and most other Western countries should have no problem viewing it.</em></p>
<p>#*#*#*#*#*#</p>
<p>Era meta&#8217; dicembre, e avevo appena lasciato Sulaimani per cominciare  la mia vacanza invernale. Stavo andando nel sudest asiatico! Il mio volo  per Kuala Lumpur partiva da Erbil, la capitale della regione curda, e  dopo tre ore di &#8216;taxi comunale&#8217; (condiviso con sconosciuti), sono  arrivato all&#8217;aeroporto&#8230; quattro ore in anticipo. Non era tutta colpa  mia: Gulf Air, le cui ali mi avrebbero portato in Malesia, avvisava sul  suo sito di arrivare quattro ore prima del decollo quando si partiva da  Erbil. Non conoscendo molto ne&#8217; l&#8217;aeroporto di Erbil ne&#8217; Gulf Air, avevo  deciso di seguire il consiglio. Risultato: avevo piu&#8217; di tre ore da  passsare in quel terminal estremamente blando e noioso.</p>
<p>Durante il viaggio in taxi che mi aveva portato da Suli a Erbil,  passando per le citta&#8217; di Chamchamal e Kirkuk, avevo iniziato a pensare a  che tipo di video volevo fare durante queste due settimane di viaggio  attraverso paesi da me mai visitati prima. &#8220;Sarebbe bello fare qualcosa  come il <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2q95mtgqYUc" target="_blank">video</a> sul mio viaggio verso Beirut&#8221;, pensavo tra me e me mentre il tassista e  gli altri tre passeggeri parlavano e scherzavano in curdo. &#8220;Non sarebbe  male farlo a ritmo di una canzone&#8221;.</p>
<p>Quindi, dopo aver ordinato un caffe&#8217; (non buono) e con ancora tre ore  rimaste al barino abbastanza deprimente vicino al mio gate, iniziai a  navigare il mio iPod in cerca di un pezzo per il mio futuro  video-racconto. E poi pensai, &#8220;perche&#8217; non scegliere una canzone che  sarebbe abbastanza facile da cantare per le persone che incontrero&#8217; per  strada&#8221;? E da li&#8217; iniziai a cercare un brano positivo, divertente, che  avesse anche un testo piuttosto ripetitivo e semplice.</p>
<p>I Doors avevano delle proposte interessanti; <em>Another Brick in the  Wall</em> era si ripetitiva, ma un po&#8217; troppo cupa. Un paio di annunci  di decollo piu&#8217; tardi, arrivai alla mia collezzione di canzoni di Fatboy  Slim. Pochi minuti dopo, sapevo di aver trovato la canzone giusta.</p>
<p>Una volta arrivato in Malesia, dovevo iniziare a implementare il mio  piano. Oltre ai paesaggi che stavo gia&#8217; filmando (con la mia macchina  fotografica digitale Canon), mi servivano delle persone cantanti.  All&#8217;inizio non era facilissimo &#8211; dovevo domandare a stranieri di  cantare, e un certo tipo di timidezza a riguardo rendeva la missione un  po&#8217; piu&#8217; difficile. Ma dopo le prime performance registrate, e&#8217;  diventato quasi un istinto dovunque andavo: ho finito per filmare  persone che cantavano la mia canzone durante tutto il viaggio, in  Malesia, Cambogia e Thailandia.</p>
<p>Quest&#8217;introduzione e&#8217; fin troppo lunga. Ci ho messo quattro settimane  a montare questo video, e sono contento di farvelo finalmente vedere.  Signore e signori, <strong>Il mio viaggio nel sudest asiatico al ritmo  di &#8220;Praise You&#8221;, di Fatboy Slim.</strong></p>
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		<title>All quiet on the Kurdish front</title>
		<link>http://sarchaw.wordpress.com/2011/01/31/all-quiet-on-the-kurdish-front/</link>
		<comments>http://sarchaw.wordpress.com/2011/01/31/all-quiet-on-the-kurdish-front/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 31 Jan 2011 18:54:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>eliab</dc:creator>
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		<description><![CDATA[Business as usual today in Suli. Salem Street, one of the main roads in the city that stretches from the outer western loop to the central bazaar, and the theoretical host of the demonstrations, was bustling with cars, buses, and shawarma stands &#8212; not people holding megaphones and provocative signs. Understandably, therefore, there hasn&#8217;t been [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=sarchaw.wordpress.com&amp;blog=13101620&amp;post=430&amp;subd=sarchaw&amp;ref=&amp;feed=1" width="1" height="1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Business as usual today in Suli. Salem Street, one of the main roads in the city that stretches from the outer western loop to the central bazaar, and the theoretical host of the demonstrations, was bustling with cars, buses, and shawarma stands &#8212; not people holding megaphones and provocative signs.</p>
<p>Understandably, therefore, there hasn&#8217;t been much international news coverage of the non-chaos going on here. The AP ran a <a href="http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2011/01/30/AR2011013001337.html" target="_blank">story</a> on Sunday about Gorran&#8217;s call for government resignation, but that&#8217;s been pretty much it.</p>
<p>I&#8217;ll let you know if more protests, demonstrations and big changes don&#8217;t happen here.</p>
<p>#*#*#*#</p>
<p>Niente di strano oggi a Sulaimani. Salem Street, una delle strade principali della citta&#8217; che connette la parte ovest della circonvallazione piu&#8217; esterna con il bazaar centrale, e sede teorica della manifestazione organizzata per oggi, era occupata da macchine, pullman e negozi di shawarma &#8212; non da persone con megafoni e cartelli provocatori.</p>
<p>Comprensibilmente, quindi, non ci sono stati tanti servizi internazionali sul caos e l&#8217;incertezza che <em>non</em> si sono verificati qui. L&#8217; Associated Press ha pubblicato un <a href="http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2011/01/30/AR2011013001337.html" target="_blank">articolo</a> domenica sulla richiesta del partito di opposizione curdo Gorran (&#8220;cambiamento&#8221;) di dimissioni del governo, ma niente da allora.</p>
<p>Vi terro&#8217; aggiornati su qualsiasi altra manifestazione che <em>non</em> succedera&#8217; qua.</p>
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		<title>Change&#8230; in the Kurdistan Region</title>
		<link>http://sarchaw.wordpress.com/2011/01/30/change-in-the-kurdistan-region/</link>
		<comments>http://sarchaw.wordpress.com/2011/01/30/change-in-the-kurdistan-region/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 30 Jan 2011 14:25:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>eliab</dc:creator>
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		<description><![CDATA[Interesting to see Kurdish authorities, parties and young professionals react to the wave of demonstrations sweeping the region. ﻿﻿The main opposition party in the Kurdish region, Gorran (&#8220;change&#8221; in Kurdish), has tried to raise its voice. They scheduled a major protest for Monday morning, and it has already been deemed illegal by the government (under the new [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=sarchaw.wordpress.com&amp;blog=13101620&amp;post=425&amp;subd=sarchaw&amp;ref=&amp;feed=1" width="1" height="1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Interesting to see Kurdish authorities, parties and young professionals react to the wave of demonstrations sweeping the region.</p>
<p>﻿﻿The main opposition party in the Kurdish region, Gorran (&#8220;change&#8221; in Kurdish), has tried to raise its voice. They scheduled a major protest for Monday morning, and it has already been deemed illegal by the government (under the <a href="http://www.kurdishglobe.net/display-article.html?id=981B2D5304CC6CA7302680AF22901695" target="_blank">new law </a>requiring demonstrators to register beforehand). Several local NGOs, who were already planning to protest electricity prices, government salaries and a few other partly unrelated issues, decided to pull the plug and postpone their demonstrations, in an effort to stay out of these party skirmishes. But Gorran might very well go ahead with its own.  </p>
<p>Here&#8217;s an email sent today by a Gorran official to journalists and supporters:</p>
<blockquote><p>From: ZYX<br />
Subject:<br />
To: XYZ<br />
Date: Sunday, January 30, 2011, 12:41 AM</p>
<p>Dear XYZ,</p>
<p>I hope you are well, I would like to furnish you with some of the main<br />
points of Gorran&#8217;s statement to the citizens of the Kurdistan region.<br />
(roughly translated).</p>
<p>1. Bringing an end to KDP &amp; PUK leadership interference in the areas<br />
of Government, Civil Service, Parliament, Courts, Security forces<br />
(Asayish) and the Peshmerge.</p>
<p>2. Bringing an end to the interference of Ayaish, both intelligence<br />
services (zaniyarî and parastin) and Peshmerge in the political<br />
affairs of citizens and activities of the population. replacing the<br />
heads of these organisations with people who are independent and<br />
professional.</p>
<p>3. The dissolution of the current government and formation of a<br />
technocratic independent caretaker government.</p>
<p>4. The dissolution of the current parliament.</p>
<p>5. Call new elections for the Kurdistan parliament that are free and<br />
fair within the next 3 months.</p>
<p>6. The return of property of the state that has been taken over by<br />
political parties and politicians.</p>
<p>7. withdrawal of the proposed regional constitution and all<br />
legislation relation to the governance of Kurdistan until the<br />
formation of the next parliament.</p></blockquote>
<p>Bold demands, no question. How are the ruling parties reacting? Check out <a href="http://qubadsblog.com/2011/01/kurdistan-is-not-tunisia/" target="_blank">Qubad Talabani&#8217;s view</a>, he&#8217;s the Representative of the Kurdistand Regional Government in the U.S. Here&#8217;s an excerpt:</p>
<blockquote><p>No one is doubting the need to improve governance and the delivery of services in Kurdistan. But it is unfortunate, that rather than use the political process, Gorran’s leadership and a few of their supporters from outside of Sulaimani want to take advantage of peoples genuine complaints, and use this opportunity to sow trouble and attempt to destabilize the city of Sulaimani. </p>
<p>People are genuinely concerned that because [sic] Gorran has failed to utilize its position in Kurdistan’s politics, and is losing credibility with its supporters, that their only hope now is to try to foment instability and try to benefit from it.</p></blockquote>
<p>Let&#8217;s see what happens on Monday. It&#8217;s raining like hell here in Sulaimani, to add to the drama&#8230;</p>
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		<title>Full moons, tuk-tuks and Dr. Fish</title>
		<link>http://sarchaw.wordpress.com/2011/01/08/full-moons-tuk-tuks-and-dr-fish/</link>
		<comments>http://sarchaw.wordpress.com/2011/01/08/full-moons-tuk-tuks-and-dr-fish/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 08 Jan 2011 16:07:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>eliab</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://sarchaw.wordpress.com/?p=420</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[What I love about living in the Middle East is the opportunity to visit places that were previously out of my (reasonable) reach. Taking advantage of the university&#8217;s generous winter break, I embarked on a 13-day trip through Southeast Asia. Why not, right? I flew in and out of Malaysia, and explored Thailand and Cambodia [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=sarchaw.wordpress.com&amp;blog=13101620&amp;post=420&amp;subd=sarchaw&amp;ref=&amp;feed=1" width="1" height="1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>What I love about living in the Middle East is the opportunity to visit places that were previously out of my (reasonable) reach. Taking advantage of the university&#8217;s generous winter break, I embarked on a 13-day trip through Southeast Asia. Why not, right?</p>
<p>I flew in and out of Malaysia, and explored Thailand and Cambodia along the way. It was interchangeably fun, relaxing, delicious and eye-opening. You can catch some pictures <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/eboggia/SEAsiaTripDecember2010" target="_blank">here</a>.</p>
<p>#*#*#*#</p>
<p>Un grande vantaggio del vivere nel medio oriente e&#8217; l&#8217;opportunita&#8217; di visitare paesi e regioni che erano prima troppo lontani. Approfittando del generoso break invernale dell&#8217;universita&#8217;, sono partito per un viaggio di 13 giorni attraverso il sud-est asiatico. Perche&#8217; no?</p>
<p>Sono atterrato e ripartito dalla Malesia, e ho visitato la Thailandia e la Cambogia. E&#8217; stato un viaggio divertente, rilassante, delizioso e interessante. Potete vedere delle foto <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/eboggia/SEAsiaTripDecember2010" target="_blank">qui</a>.</p>
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		<title>A teacher in pleasant exile</title>
		<link>http://sarchaw.wordpress.com/2011/01/03/a-teacher-in-pleasant-exile/</link>
		<comments>http://sarchaw.wordpress.com/2011/01/03/a-teacher-in-pleasant-exile/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 03 Jan 2011 19:06:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>eliab</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://sarchaw.wordpress.com/?p=413</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Here&#8217;s an interesting piece about being an American professor teaching Iraqi students, written by my friend and colleague Jim Owens. It&#8217;s his first semester teaching in Suli and he&#8217;s had a tremendous experience so far. #*#*#*#* Ecco un pezzo interessante, scritto dal mio amico e collega Jim Owens, sull&#8217;esperienza di un professore universitario (americano) in [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=sarchaw.wordpress.com&amp;blog=13101620&amp;post=413&amp;subd=sarchaw&amp;ref=&amp;feed=1" width="1" height="1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://www.insidehighered.com/advice/2010/12/20/owens" target="_blank">Here&#8217;s</a> an interesting piece about being an American professor teaching Iraqi students, written by my friend and colleague Jim Owens. It&#8217;s his first semester teaching in Suli and he&#8217;s had a tremendous experience so far.</p>
<p>#*#*#*#*</p>
<p><a href="http://www.insidehighered.com/advice/2010/12/20/owens" target="_blank">Ecco</a> un pezzo interessante, scritto dal mio amico e collega Jim Owens, sull&#8217;esperienza di un professore universitario (americano) in Iraq. E&#8217; a Sulaimani dall&#8217;estate scorsa e, fino ad ora, gli studenti iracheni lo hanno proprio colpito.</p>
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		<title>Deserts, fog and sheep intestine</title>
		<link>http://sarchaw.wordpress.com/2010/09/05/deserts-fog-and-sheep-intestine/</link>
		<comments>http://sarchaw.wordpress.com/2010/09/05/deserts-fog-and-sheep-intestine/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 05 Sep 2010 07:15:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>eliab</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://sarchaw.wordpress.com/?p=398</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[As promised, here&#8217;s a video account of my recent trip through Iraq, Turkey, Syria and Lebanon. It&#8217;s composed of various short videos I shot throughout the journey &#8211; therefore excuse me if it&#8217;s a little diced up. I decided to leave the original sounds instead of adding background music in order to give a fuller [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=sarchaw.wordpress.com&amp;blog=13101620&amp;post=398&amp;subd=sarchaw&amp;ref=&amp;feed=1" width="1" height="1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>As <a href="http://sarchaw.wordpress.com/2010/07/26/journey-mates/" target="_blank">promised</a>, here&#8217;s a video account of my recent trip through Iraq, Turkey, Syria and Lebanon. It&#8217;s composed of various short videos I shot throughout the journey &#8211; therefore excuse me if it&#8217;s a little diced up. I decided to leave the original sounds instead of adding background music in order to give a fuller sense of the places I was visiting. Enjoy.</p>
<span class='embed-youtube' style='text-align:center; display: block;'><iframe class='youtube-player' type='text/html' width='500' height='312' src='http://www.youtube.com/embed/2q95mtgqYUc?version=3&amp;rel=1&amp;fs=1&amp;showsearch=0&amp;showinfo=1&amp;iv_load_policy=1&amp;wmode=transparent' frameborder='0'></iframe></span>
<p>#* #* #* #*#</p>
<p>Come <a href="http://sarchaw.wordpress.com/2010/07/26/journey-mates/" target="_blank">promesso</a>, ecco un video-riassunto del mio recente viaggio per l&#8217;Iraq, la Turchia, la Siria e il Libano. E&#8217; composto di vari corti filmati catturati nel percorso della mia avventura. Ho deciso di lasciare per intero i suoni originali, invece di metterci sopra della musica; spero questo aiuti a dare un&#8217;idea piu&#8217; completa dei posti che ho visitato. Enjoy.</p>
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		<title>Next time, count me in</title>
		<link>http://sarchaw.wordpress.com/2010/08/11/next-time-count-me-in/</link>
		<comments>http://sarchaw.wordpress.com/2010/08/11/next-time-count-me-in/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 11 Aug 2010 07:45:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>eliab</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://sarchaw.wordpress.com/?p=373</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I was walking home from work the other day when I stopped to observe the Sulaimani landscape in the opposite direction from my destination. The sun was about to come down, and in the distance, East of my university and before the hills of the Ablakh area begin their climb, I spotted a congregation of [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=sarchaw.wordpress.com&amp;blog=13101620&amp;post=373&amp;subd=sarchaw&amp;ref=&amp;feed=1" width="1" height="1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I was walking home from work the other day when I stopped to observe the Sulaimani landscape in the opposite direction from my destination. The sun was about to come down, and in the distance, East of my university and before the hills of the Ablakh area begin their climb, I spotted a congregation of the kind I like best: a football game with numerous spectators.</p>
<p>I went over to see who was playing on the concrete field. When I finally asked someone, I discovered that it wasn&#8217;t just a meaningless recreational game, but none other than an old-school neighborhood clash: a team from Rizgari, where my apartment falls, and Ablakh, the hilly, adjacent (and very ancient, I&#8217;ve learned) area that I had initially stopped to look at during my commute.</p>
<p><a href="http://sarchaw.files.wordpress.com/2010/08/img_1805.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-380" title="IMG_1805" src="http://sarchaw.files.wordpress.com/2010/08/img_1805.jpg?w=500&#038;h=375" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></a></p>
<p>Team Rizgari in <em>rojas</em> uniform, in honor of the newly-crowned Spanish world champions; Team Ablakh in Netherlands light blue, with appropriate Dutch emblem on every jersey. Unfortunately for me, my team was getting pummeled. I witnessed at least ten Ablakh goals to none for our red furies. Of course, it kind of hurt seeing a team from my neighborhood perform so badly, so I mentioned to the three young men who introduced themselves while watching the game that I wanted to be counted next time Rizgari prepared for a football match of this importance. I wasn&#8217;t kidding either.</p>
<p><a href="http://sarchaw.files.wordpress.com/2010/08/img_1810.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-382" title="IMG_1810" src="http://sarchaw.files.wordpress.com/2010/08/img_1810.jpg?w=500&#038;h=375" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></a></p>
<p>The game drew pretty big crowds, including taxi drivers on break, workers of many ethnicities, a few elderly men and many, many kids. Sporting their favorite jersey (of the week, I assume), they all sat, ate popsicles and eagerly commented on the progress on the pitch.</p>
<p><a href="http://sarchaw.files.wordpress.com/2010/08/img_1809.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-381" title="IMG_1809" src="http://sarchaw.files.wordpress.com/2010/08/img_1809.jpg?w=500&#038;h=375" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></a></p>
<p>And check out below. I swear I didn&#8217;t place them like that myself. Forget the derby: junior Milan fan, junior Inter fan, side by side, watching the game as the sunset begins to caress the rocks.</p>
<p><a href="http://sarchaw.files.wordpress.com/2010/08/img_1813.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-383" title="IMG_1813" src="http://sarchaw.files.wordpress.com/2010/08/img_1813.jpg?w=500&#038;h=375" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></a></p>
<p>#*#*#*#*#</p>
<p>L&#8217;altro giorno stavo tornando a casa dall&#8217;universita&#8217; quando mi sono fermato per ammirare il paesaggio cittadino esattamente nella direzione opposta rispetto alla mia destinazione. Il sole si stava preparando a fare il suo scatto finale verso il basso, e nella distanza, a est della mia universita&#8217; e prima delle colline della zona chiamata Ablakh, ho visto una congregazione del tipo che mi piace di piu&#8217;: una partita di calcio con tanti spettatori.</p>
<p>Anche se non era sulla strada per casa, non potevo resistere e mi sono avvicinato al campetto di cemento per scoprire chi stava giocando. Quando ho finalmente chiesto a un altro astante, ho scoperto che non era una partitella qualunque, ma bensi&#8217; un bello scontro tra quartieri: una squadra di Rizgari, l&#8217;area che, guarda caso, ospita il mio appartamento, e Ablakh, proprio la zona antica e collinosa che stavo ammirando all&#8217;inizio.</p>
<p>Team Rizgari in maglia <em>rojas</em>, in onore dei neo-campioni del mondo della Spagna; Team Ablakh in tenuta azzurro-olandese, con tanto di stemma della federcalcio <em>oranje</em> su ogni maglia. Purtroppo per me, la mia squadra le stava prendendo. Ho visto almeno dieci gol per Ablakh, e neanche uno per le mie furie rosse. Ovviamente, non ero felicissimo di assistere a questa disfatta del mio quartiere, quindi ho detto ai tre ragazzi che si erano presentati durante la partita che voglio esserci la prossima volta che Rizgari si prepara per una partita di simile importanza. Non stavo per niente scherzando.</p>
<p>La partita aveva attirato un bel numero di spettatori: taxisti in sosta, lavoratori di varie etnie, qualche anziano, e molti, molti bambini. Con addosso le loro magliette di calcio preferite (o le preferite di quel giorno, conoscendoli), stavano li&#8217; seduti a gustarsi un ghiacciolo e commentare i numeri, e gli errori, della partita.</p>
<p>E beccatevi quell&#8217;ultima foto. Vi giuro che non li ho messi li&#8217; cosi&#8217; io. Scordatevi il derby: giovane tifoso del Milan, giovane tifoso dell&#8217;Inter, seduti uno accanto all&#8217;altro guardando la partita, mentre il tramonto comincia ad accarezzare i sassi.</p>
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		<title>A perfect color, a lack of color</title>
		<link>http://sarchaw.wordpress.com/2010/08/05/a-perfect-color-a-lack-of-color/</link>
		<comments>http://sarchaw.wordpress.com/2010/08/05/a-perfect-color-a-lack-of-color/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 05 Aug 2010 13:12:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>eliab</dc:creator>
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		<description><![CDATA[&#8220;Why all these white cars?&#8221; I finally asked a Kurdish friend. &#8220;Why does everyone here buy white cars? Why not blue, black, silver&#8230;?&#8221; I asked for it, and I got it. While steering his white SUV down the circular road that surrounds Suli, my friend threw his thumb up to begin the list that would [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=sarchaw.wordpress.com&amp;blog=13101620&amp;post=362&amp;subd=sarchaw&amp;ref=&amp;feed=1" width="1" height="1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>&#8220;Why all these white cars?&#8221; I finally asked a Kurdish friend. &#8220;Why does everyone here buy white cars? Why not blue, black, silver&#8230;?&#8221;</p>
<div id="attachment_367" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 310px"><a href="http://sarchaw.files.wordpress.com/2010/08/img_1799.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-367" title="IMG_1799" src="http://sarchaw.files.wordpress.com/2010/08/img_1799.jpg?w=300&#038;h=225" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">White, and rather similar, cars in my neighborhood.</p></div>
<p>I asked for it, and I got it. While steering his white SUV down the circular road that surrounds Suli, my friend threw his thumb up to begin the list that would settle all my doubts:</p>
<p>1) White because &#8220;when the heat comes down, the car pushes it back up.&#8221;</p>
<p>It <em>is</em> pretty hot around here. Fair enough, white reflects most of the heat, making it a little easier to survive the constant 115+ weather.</p>
<p>2) White because at night, when you&#8217;re driving around on roads that have no street lighting, you can be more easily seen.</p>
<p>Touche&#8217; my friend, can&#8217;t say I had thought of that aspect. I guess this would apply almost anywhere, but Suli does have a few stretches of main roads where it could be a little brighter at night. And, what do you know, your white car will help you be seen.</p>
<p>3) White because it&#8217;s easier to clean.</p>
<p>Now, I&#8217;ve heard this theory from white car owners in the US before (yes Gilla, that includes you), and I&#8217;m still a little skeptical about this. I just don&#8217;t see how staining white coating with mud is better than staining dark blue coating with mud. And I don&#8217;t see how it would be easier to clean the former. It might be more satisfying, sure: once you clean a white object, it really does look clean in all its nullity. I don&#8217;t know&#8230; maybe I&#8217;ll get a demonstration one of these days. Maybe from my friend who runs the hotel I live in:</p>
<div id="attachment_366" class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 510px"><a href="http://sarchaw.files.wordpress.com/2010/08/img_1817.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-366" title="IMG_1817" src="http://sarchaw.files.wordpress.com/2010/08/img_1817.jpg?w=500&#038;h=375" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">One of my peshmerga friends on duty; behind him, the hotel employee washes a white car with a lot of water.</p></div>
<p>4) White because it&#8217;s the &#8220;nicer color that everyone likes. It doesn&#8217;t jump at you&#8221; like other colors.</p>
<p>Well, I guess you can give white points for subtleness. And yea, everyone does seems to like it over here, fine.</p>
<p>This is for sure an interesting 4-point plan to explain why it&#8217;s &#8216;absolutely normal&#8217; that about 85% of the cars in Suli are white, so kudos to my unnamed driver friend. Similarly, I was talking to a young Iraqi Kurd this week, and just a few minutes after I met him I asked him about the local obsession with white cars. The kid gave me two additional explanations, the first being that car salesmen around here only sell white cars (is demand driving supply here or vice-versa?). And, finally, he told me, &#8220;because it&#8217;s the best color.&#8221;</p>
<p>To which I couldn&#8217;t help but respond, half to jokingly provoke, half to &#8230; ok, just to provoke: &#8220;but it is not a color!&#8221; Let the <a href="http://www.colormatters.com/vis_bk_white.html#Anchor-The-35882" target="_blank">debate</a> begin.</p>
<p>#*#*#*#*#</p>
<p>&#8220;Perche&#8217; tutte queste macchine bianche&#8221;? ho finalmente domandato a un amico curdo. &#8220;Perche&#8217; qui tutti comprano solo macchine bianche? Perche&#8217; non nere, blu, grige&#8230;&#8221;?</p>
<p>Ho chiesto, e ho ricevuto un&#8217;adeguata risposta. Guidando il suo SUV (bianco) giu&#8217; per la circonvallazione Sulaimanese, il mio amico tira su il pollice destro per iniziare l&#8217;elenco di ragioni che mettera&#8217; tutti i miei dubbi a riguardo a riposo:</p>
<p>1) Bianche perche&#8217; &#8220;quando il calore viene giu&#8217;, la macchina lo respinge&#8221;.</p>
<p>Ineffetti, fa proprio caldo qua. E va bene, il bianco respinge i raggi del sole ed e&#8217; un colore molto adatto per le parti piu&#8217; calde del mondo. Certamente fa il sopravvivere in macchina &#8211; senza aria condizionata e quando ci sono 45 gradi - un po&#8217; piu&#8217; agevole.</p>
<p>2) Bianche perche&#8217; di notte, quando si guida in strade non illuminate, e&#8217; piu&#8217; facile farsi vedere.</p>
<p>Pero&#8217; - a questo non ci avevo pensato. Questo discorso ha validita&#8217; quasi dappertutto, pero&#8217; e&#8217; vero che a Suli ci sono un bel po&#8217; di strade principali non illuminatissime nelle ore notturne. E, guarda un po&#8217;, la tua macchina bianca sara&#8217; piu&#8217; facile da vedere che quella nera.</p>
<p>3) Bianche perche&#8217; sono piu&#8217; facili da pulire.</p>
<p>Allora, non e&#8217; la prima volta che sento questa teoria; anche in America qualcuno mi aveva tentato di convincere. Ma sono ancora un po&#8217; scettico a riguardo. Non capisco ancora come sporcare una macchina bianca sia meglio di sporcarne una blu scura. E, specialmente, non vedo come sarebbe piu&#8217; facile pulire la prima. Sara&#8217; piu&#8217; soddisfacente, certo: una volta pulito un&#8217;oggetto bianco, sembra proprio splendente nella sua nullita&#8217;. Non so&#8230; magari qualcuno mi dara&#8217; una dimostrazione uno di questi giorni. Forse il tipo che lavora al mio hotel: (vedi foto sopra).</p>
<p>4) Bianche perche&#8217; e&#8217; il &#8220;colore piu&#8217; bello, che piace a tutti. Non ti salta addosso&#8221; come gli altri.</p>
<p>Beh, direi che possiamo dare al bianco un paio di punti per delicatezza, certo. Non e&#8217; certo aggressivo come un verde brillante. E si, sembra proprio piacere a tutti qua il bianco.</p>
<p>Ho trovato questo elenco molto interessante nello spiegare perche&#8217; e&#8217; &#8216;assolutamente normale&#8217; che l&#8217;85% delle macchine a Suli siano bianche, quindi grazie al mio amico guidatore. Allo stesso modo, stavo parlando con un giovane iracheno l&#8217;altro giorno, e un paio di minuti dopo averlo conosciuto gli ho chiesto di questa ossessione per le macchine bianche. Il ragazzo mi ha dato altre due spiegazioni, la prima delle quali e&#8217; che i venditori di macchine qua in giro hanno solo quelle. (La domanda determina l&#8217;offerta qua o viceversa?) E, per concludere, mi ha detto: &#8220;perche&#8217; e&#8217; il colore piu&#8217; bello&#8221;!</p>
<p>E io non ho resistito la tentazione di rispondere, un po&#8217; per provocare un po&#8217; per&#8230; ok, solamente per provocare: &#8220;ma non e&#8217; un colore&#8221;! Che inizi il <a href="http://www.colormatters.com/vis_bk_white.html" target="_blank">dibattito</a>.</p>
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		<title>Journey mates</title>
		<link>http://sarchaw.wordpress.com/2010/07/26/journey-mates/</link>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 26 Jul 2010 18:14:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>eliab</dc:creator>
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		<description><![CDATA[Yellow mountains turned into green hills, then into flat stretches of gray desert, and finally into populated, busy foothills overlooking the blue Mediterranean. That was the journey my eyes witnessed over three days, and through just as many border crossings, on my way to Lebanon this past mid-July. My first Middle East road trip went [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=sarchaw.wordpress.com&amp;blog=13101620&amp;post=348&amp;subd=sarchaw&amp;ref=&amp;feed=1" width="1" height="1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Yellow mountains turned into green hills, then into flat stretches of gray desert, and finally into populated, busy foothills overlooking the blue Mediterranean. That was the journey my eyes witnessed over three days, and through just as many border crossings, on my way to Lebanon this past mid-July. My first Middle East road trip went well, and the itinerary from Sulaimani to Beirut ended up working entirely as planned &#8211; who would have thought.</p>
<p>I&#8217;m going to reserve the list of where I went, what I saw, what I ate, and the rest of that fluff for a future travel diary (and for my upcoming TripAdvisor entry), but let me point out one aspect of life that I noticed very strongly while on my trip and that I think is worth recounting: there are a lot of good people out there.</p>
<p>I embarked on this mini-journey by myself, and traveling alone is not one of my passions. I like company, I like sharing a meal and being able to talk about it with someone real-time. But even though I was going at it solo, I didn&#8217;t end up spending more than five consecutive hours alone the entire week-long trip. I kept meeting cool people to share my experience with. At the Iraqi-Turkish border, after having spent the first six hours of my trip in a shared taxi with three pleasant Kurdish men, I met two Polish guys also trying to find a way to get a reasonably priced way across the border (you can only cross that border by car, i.e., cab). In the spirit of collective bargaining, we joined forces to find a decent ride (which still took us a good hour, but that&#8217;s another story). These guys were not only cool and interesting people, but they were also coincidentally going my same exact route to Syria via land, through Turkey. I had found my trip companions for the next 24 hours.</p>
<p>In Nusaybin, Turkey, where the two Poles and I had to spend the night, we attracted a lot of attention from the locals, clearly unaccustomed to foreign faces. One of them approaches us offering to help us find accommodation &#8211; next thing you know, after we settle on an hotel, he introduces us to his best friend, takes us out to dinner, shows us around his city and takes us to play pool and ping pong later in the night. Extremely friendly, funny and motivated hosts who made our night in Nusaybin more memorable than one would have bet on.</p>
<div id="attachment_350" class="wp-caption alignnone" style="width: 510px"><a href="http://sarchaw.files.wordpress.com/2010/07/img_1536edited.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-350" title="IMG_1536edited" src="http://sarchaw.files.wordpress.com/2010/07/img_1536edited.jpg?w=500&#038;h=375" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Two Poles, two nationalist Kurds from Turkey and an Italian.</p></div>
<p>The third chapter of this feel-good journey recap takes place in Beirut, Lebanon, where I had a cheap hostel booked for the first few nights. On the way from Damascus, I meet a few friends of friends, one of whom is Lebanese. This guy not only ends up offering me his extra Lebanese SIM card for my stay &#8211; a mere few hours after meeting me -, but invites me to a few events/parties in my first days there and then ends up hosting me at his apartment for the majority of the week, allowing me to escape my $10/night mess of a hostel.</p>
<p>I was so impressed with the kindness, friendliness and overall good quality of so many people I met on this trip. I am thankful they turned my solo trip into a journey to be shared with others, a journey in which I not only got a taste of the beauty and culture of three new countries, but in which I also got a boost in confidence in our ability to get along &#8211; wherever we go, whoever we meet.</p>
<p>See the pictures from my trip across Iraq, Turkey, Syria and Lebanon <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/eboggia/RoadTripToBeirut#" target="_blank">here</a>. I&#8217;m also working on a video highlight reel of the trip, and I hope to post that sometime soon.</p>
<p>#*#*#*#</p>
<p>Montagne gialle che si trasformano in colline verdi, poi in lunghi deserti grigi, e di nuovo in colline molto popolate che guardano il Mediterraneo negli occhi. Sono questi i paesaggi che ho visto in tre giorni e attraverso altrettanti confini. La mia prima road trip mediorientale e&#8217; andata molto bene, e il mio itinerario da Sulaimani a Beirut ha perfino funzionato esattamente come pianificato &#8211; guarda un po&#8217;.</p>
<p>Non sto a fare la tipica lista di dove sono andato, cosa ho visto e cosa ho mangiato, ma lasciatemi condividere un aspetto della vita che ho notato durante il mio viaggio e che ritengo interessante da raccontare: c&#8217;e&#8217; tanta gente per bene e generosa la&#8217; in giro.</p>
<p>Sono partito per questa gitarella verso Beirut da solo, sebbene viaggiare in solitario non sia una delle mie passioni. A me piace essere in compagnia, condividere nuovi cibi e pasti interessanti con altra gente e poterne parlare in real-time con qualcuno. Ma anche se sono partito da Suly senza compagni di viaggio, alla fine non ho speso piu&#8217; di cinque ore di fila da solo durante l&#8217;intera vacanza. Continuavo a incontrare gente interessante e simpatica con cui condividere le esperienze del viaggio. Al confine tra l&#8217;Iraq e la Turchia, dopo aver speso le prime sei ore del mio viaggio in un taxi con tre piacevoli uomini curdi, ho incontrato due ragazzi polacchi che stavano cercando anche loro un modo abbastanza economico per attraversare il confine (questo lo si puo&#8217; attraversare solo in macchina, cioe&#8217; in taxi). Abbiamo unito le forze per trovare un prezzo decente (e ci abbiamo messo comunque un&#8217;ora, ma quella e&#8217; un&#8217;altra storia). Questi polacchi non erano solamente simpatici e interessanti, ma stavano facendo il mio stesso tragitto via terra verso la Siria: avevo trovato i miei compagni di viaggio per le seguenti 24 ore.</p>
<p>A Nusaybin, in Turchia, dove io e i due polacchi abbiamo passato la notte, attraevamo in modo inusuale l&#8217;attenzione dei locali, chiaramente non abituati a vedere stranieri nella loro modesta citta&#8217;. Uno di loro si avvicina e offre di aiutarci a trovare un albergo &#8211; ne troviamo uno che ci piace, e questo simpatico tizio finisce per introdurci al suo migliore amico, portarci fuori a cena e in giro per la sua citta&#8217;, e poi a giocare a ping pong e a biliardo. I nostri due simpatici, divertenti e curiosi ospiti hanno fatto della nostra serata a Nusaybin una piacevolissima memoria.</p>
<p>Il terzo capitolo di questo racconto si svolge a Beirut, in Libano, dove avevo prenotato un ostello molto economico per le mie prime due notti. A Damasco, proprio prima di partire verso ovest, conosco un gruppo di amici di amici, di cui uno e&#8217; libanese. Quest&#8217;ultimo non solo mi offre una delle sue SIM card libanesi per la durata della mia visita &#8211; solo un paio d&#8217;ore dopo avermi conosciuto -, ma mi invita anche a delle feste e degli eventi nei miei primi giorni a Beirut, e finisce per ospitarmi a casa sua per la maggiorparte della settimana, permettendomi cosi&#8217; di scappare dal mio ostello &#8211; abbastanza tremendo &#8211; da $10 a notte.</p>
<p>Mi ha veramente colpito la simpatia, la generosita&#8217; e la buona qualita&#8217; di cosi&#8217; tanta gente che ho incontrato in questo viaggio. Hanno trasformato il mio viaggio solitario in un&#8217;avventura da condividere con altri, un&#8217;avventura in cui non ho solamente assaggiato la cultura e la bellezza di tre nuovi paesi, ma in cui ho anche ricevuto un colpo di ottimismo sulle nostre capacita&#8217; di andare d&#8217;accordo e aiutarci l&#8217;un l&#8217;altro &#8211; dovunque andassimo, chiunque incontrassimo.</p>
<p>Potete vedere le foto del mio viaggio attraverso l&#8217;Iraq, la Turchia, la Siria e il Libano cliccando <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/eboggia/RoadTripToBeirut#" target="_blank">qui</a>. Sto anche preparando un video-racconto del viaggio, e spero di condividerlo con voi al piu&#8217; presto.</p>
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